Book Review: A Real Southern Cook: In her Savannah Kitchen
Paula Deen. I bet one word comes to mind when you see that name. If you're not Black that one word better be "butter" and not the other word she got in trouble for saying. Either way, you probably know her name.
I wish Dora Charles' name was as well known and regarded.
Dora is the chef who's recipes and hard work serve as the foundation for Paula's success. After seeing a blurb online about Ms. Charles, I bought her cookbook to support and contribute some dollars into the deficit she's owed. I have gone to Paula Deen’s restaurant. I own one of Paula Deen’s cookbooks. I felt obligated.
This book is part autobiography, part ethnography. I have to also mention that the book contains beautiful photography of Savannah life. At the start, Ms. Charles tells her story and continues to do so throughout the recipes using short anecdotes. Her story is such an interesting narrative of Black life in the south. Through the retelling of her experiences, I found myself rooting for her (our) success in life. I already knew it wouldn't be the happy ending that I wanted. Yet, I was surprised at the range of emotions I felt. At one point, I had to put the book down and call a friend. I wasn't just upset because of what Paula had done to her. There was another layer to my frustration. I was upset with Dora. She grasped that she had been wronged but at every turn, she speaks of her former boss with appreciation. She's thankful for the experience. It pissed me off. I used to watch Paula Deen's show. I've seen how she lives. I know she had merchandise in stores. I know she's made paid appearances detailing her rise to success that she attributes to her own merit and hard work. AND I know she refers to Black people as niggers. I think Ms. Charles doesn't fully understand just how much she is owed. Then again, maybe she does. There's a quiet acceptance that this is just the way things are, there's really nothing that can be done. And damn, it does feel that way. After I was done reading every page of this book, I flipped it over and looked at the title. “A Real Southern Cook” hmm. Was it? Could it be? …Shade? Black people do have our ways of jabbing back when it seems we don’t have any recourse.
On to the food! I'm not a cook. I'm a person who enjoys eating and who appreciates the loveliness of a good sentence. The instructions are straightforward and I enjoyed all of the great tips she offers from cookware to salvaging a dish gone wrong. Ms. Charles' expertise comes through the recipes, as does her dedication to flavor and love for cooking. I lament at what successes she could have reached, because it's clear that her food is what wrote Paula Deen's name into southern cuisine history, like so many Black people before her. Dora Charles just feels like the real deal. I'm grateful to have this book. So far, I’ve only made the turkey wings but they were goooood. What I’m really looking forward to is the desserts! I may have to risk my gluten free lifestyle for the red velvet cake. You can pick up A Real Southern Cook: In her Savannah Kitchen on Amazon or at Barnes and Noble.